Canada From Coast to Coast – The Gulf Islands, BC.

I’m still in BC I realize that, but it’s a big province with a lot to do and experience. And frankly this group of posts would be incomplete if I didn’t dedicate a post to our gulf islands and ferry routes.

The Gulf Islands comprise of 15 islands, plus numerous small islets and reef areas. The forested Gulf Islands include Mayne, Galiano, Hornby, and Gabriola. The largest is Salt Spring, famed for its locavore-minded farmers, artisan producers, and organic vineyards. Wildlife, nature, coastal activities. For more details and information on the Gulf Island check out https://gulfislandstourism.com/

All the Islands I’m listing are accessible via BC Ferries from either Vancouver (Tsawwassen Ferry Terminal) or Victoria on Vancouver Island.

Generally you get to these islands via ferry, some of them are part of the same route, so when you get on the ferry, it probably won’t be the first stop. However, you can take private charter/sea planes or if you’re sailing/boating then you can island hop. I think if I had the choice and this was my vacation, I’d want to sail the waters and see the Island from this perspective. Most activities are found along the coastlines of each Island.

Check the roads before you go – https://weather.gc.ca/forecast/canada/index_e.html?id=BC

If you’re travelling by car, then you can still Island hop, and it will allow you to see each Island completely. There are generally a lot of artisans and crafts people along with locally made cheeses and the likes, Salt Spring in particular offers a lot of this.

Ferry Schedules – vary based on the island you’re going to, what time of year and of course the wait times. In the summer, if your dates are set, then I suggest going on-line to bcferries.com and reserving your spot. Make sure you are at the toll booth 30 minutes prior to boarding, if you show up in line and it takes you 10 minutes to reach the toll booth, then your reservation is null and void!

I’m going to touch on each Island to give you a feel for what they offer. Some won’t have a lot of info, others more; as several of the Gulf Islands are more residential and as such don’t have the same offerings.

Salt Spring Island – accessed from Vancouver Island (so yes, if you’ve come by car, you’ll be taking 2 ferries), there are two different ferry terminals taking you to Salt Spring it’s close enough to The Island (that’s what West Coasters call Vancouver Island) be a commuter island. Your sailing time from Victoria is about 35 minutes, this route is not reservable.

https://www.saltspringtourism.com/things-to-do-on-salt-spring-island/

Salt Spring is probably the most popular of the Gulf Islands. With spas, yoga retreats, hiking, camping, kayaking, sailing, cycling, paddle boarding, golfing, whale watching and charter fishing and boat tours Salt Spring has a lot to offer. The vibe of the Island is super relaxed, with good food and a large community of artists and artisans. Because it’s so close to Victoria, a lot of people do a day trip or maybe spend one night and a couple days to explore and experience the island. There are lot’s of charming B&B’s.

Galiano Island – so I’m literally just stealing this directly from the Galiano Visitors Guide! The Galiano Island Chamber of Commerce operates an information booth on Sturdies Bay Road, just up from the ferry; you can email them at info@galianoisland.com if you have questions.

You’ll find everything you need while there, with three well-stocked grocery stores operate year-round, a bakery and three liquor/wine/beer outlets. And “Leave Room in Your Suitcase” – Galiano presents a wide range of temptations. Boasting the highest percentage of artists per capita in the Province, Galiano offers internationally acclaimed and collected arts & crafts. They also have a variety of accommodations available, ranging from bed & breakfasts, to cottages & cabins to resorts & inns. And if camping is your thing, Montague Harbour Park has 13 drive-in sites and 15 walk-in sites with water, campfire pits and public toilets.

Pender Island – Pender Island is “divided” into two parts, North and South joined by a single lane bridge. Easily travelled in one day as it’s only 35km long. Each developed enough to have many amenities, and natural enough to offer secluded beaches and solitary forest treks and lots of friendly people.

BC Ferries operates a scheduled ferry service from Tsawwassen Ferry Terminal in Vancouver to Otter Bay on Pender Island. Sailing Time: 1 hour 20 minutes between Pender Island and Tsawwassen non stop, and about 2 hours 15 minutes with stops and/or transfers at Galiano and Mayne Islands.

For the adventurous there is kayaking, swimming, sailing, disc golf, golf, fishing, biking or hiking. Try a walk up 244-metre (800-foot) Mount Norman or a wander on the ridge near Greenburn Lake for stunning views. Pender has 37 beach accesses and 57 trails to explore. A detailed Pender Island Community Parks and Trail Guide will lead you to each and every one of them. The booklet is available at local shops. 

Mayne Island – is probably the least touristy of the Island in my mind. It has a group of permanent residents, but is also very much about the outdoors; like most of the gulf islands you’ll have to spend some time getting there. The island is a scenic 60 minutes from Vancouver (Tsawwassen) and 50 minutes from Victoria (Swartz Bay) on Vancouver Island

It does however, have a colourful history; the original settlement of Miners Bay is still a thriving hub in which visitors can find many wonderful spots to watch the ferries go by in Active Pass, and visit what is said to be the oldest continuously operating hotel in B.C. The old agricultural hall, site of the farmers’ market and fall fair, is also here, as is the library, grocery stores, restaurants and cafes, the Mayne Island Conservancy, post office, ATM, gas station and a variety of shops.

Saturna Island –  is very mountainous only 31 square kilometres (12 sq mi) in size and 14 nautical miles from the Tsawwassen terminal as the crow flies, but the trip involves two ferries, and can take over three hours. So this isn’t a day trip Island!

It’s home, for example, to one of Vancouver’s former outstanding chefs, who now serves up gourmet meals to grateful locals and amazed visitors alike at the Saturna Café. It’s home to the general store beside the café, a bright, well-stocked market selling ethnic and organic food that would be at home on Granville Island.

And those are the Southern Gulf Island – there are lot’s of islands dotting the gulf, however many of them are uninhabited, private or require a boat to get to them. All are great for outdoor activities and have lovely B&B’s and hotels.

Heading to the middle of the Island, or maybe you came from Vancouver, Horseshoe Bay ferry terminal directly to Nanaimo, and want a little more remoteness for a day or two. Then Gabriola may be the perfect getaway. https://hellogabriola.ca/

Gabriola Island – is the most easily accessed via the ferry from downtown Nanaimo, it’s only a 25 minute trip. Gabriola has dense forests of evergreen trees, towering sandstone bluffs, abundant wildlife, and an iconic West Coast shoreline are home to a robust community of artists, makers, creators and innovators. Discover what the Isle of the Arts has to offer year-round. There are plenty of beautiful hotels as well as camping sites to suit your preferences and budget.

Now we’re going to pop a little further North; you have to go to Vancouver Island to get to these ones, unless of course you have your own boat! I grew up going to Hornby via Denman as a kid and it is so beautiful. If you’re coming from Vancouver, take the ferry to Nanaimo and do the hour drive to Buckley Bay or if you are visiting the Comox Valley, then it’s about a 30 minute drive or so, well maybe a bit more, it depends on which route you take. But I’ll you figure that out!

Denman Island – it’s only a 10-minute ride on BC Ferries’ first cable ferry is all it takes to make the connection to Denman Island. Denman offers a vibrant arts scene, lively events, a beautiful, natural environment and lots of opportunities for active recreation or restful re-creation.  You can either camp or stay in a lovely B & B or of course sleep on your boat while there.

Hornby Island – first of all Hornby has the only white sand beach that I know of. I mean Hawaii/tropical soft white sand. It is amazing. Tribune Bay and Hallewell Park are the jewels of this Island. And of course lot’s of artists and their studios.

To get there you must take the ferry from Buckley Bay, “race” (okay well don’t speed, and no jumping the que, if you got on the ferry you’ll make the next one) across Denman Island to get to the ferry that will take you on the short ride over. A couple of important notes regarding the ferry: The last ferry connecting to Hornby Island departs Buckley Bay at 6 pm each day, except for Fridays when the last ferry departs at 9:30pm. If you miss the 6pm ferry in the evening, you are sleeping on Hornby! So plan accordingly.

Heading even further north we have two more Islands accessible via BC ferries. This time you’ll need to get to Campbell River, I recommend spending a few days in the Comox Valley while you’re there, they have something for everyone. Amazing restaurants, mountains for skiing, hiking, mountain biking, etc. Lakes and Rivers as well as great beaches. Anyway, onward to Quadra and Cortes Islands.

To get there you’ll drive directly into Campbell River and head to the only ferry terminal in town. This area is famous for it’s fishing, with many resorts and local fishermen that focus solely on guided fishing tours. If you love to fish then this is the place to go.

Quadra Island – is the central community of the Discovery Islands, a group of small islands located along the Inside Passage seaway. Quadra is home to a lively, close-knit community from all walks of life and all parts of the world. You will find beaches, parks, wildlife and of course water sports. And the world famous April Point Lodge and Fishing Resort. http://www.quadraisland.ca/

Cortes Island – Picturesque Heriot Bay is the port of departure for the ferry to Cortes Island. So again, plan accordingly as you have to take 2 ferries to get there and to leave. Schedules vary depending on the time of the year. Nestled at the spectacular entrance of the enchanting Desolation Sound, Cortes Island lies at the doorstep of the breathtaking fjords that penetrate the wild coast of mainland British Columbia.

You’ll find forest trails, tranquil lakes, sandy beaches and warm swimming waters; and is perfectly positioned in the rain shadow of the Vancouver Island mountain range, which blocks the worst winter storms and allows us to enjoy a moderate climate with plenty of sunshine.  The mountains of the Coast Range are visible to the west – best viewed from hiking trails that lead up Green Mountain and Easter Bluff – including distinctive Mount Denman, which towers over the edge of Desolation Sound.

And that’s it, that’s all…there are so many choices just island hopping through the Salish Sea but known as the Strait of Georgia, some Islands are probably better suited to those of you that love that outdoors and want to camp and slide off the grid without losing cell phone service. Others offer something for everyone with spas, restaurants, resorts and beautiful B & B’s. Basically, much like the rest of the province what interests you and how much time you have will determine what you decide to do.

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